GTR Lighting Ultra I-LED Turn Signals and Indicator LED Bulbs

The Ultra I-LED By GTR Lighting | The Most Innovative LED Turn Signal Bulbs

For many years, GTR Lighting has been recognized as the world's leading supplier of LED bulb modifications. Now, they have surpassed themselves. I have the new I-LED lights from the Ultra Series product line from GTR Lighting in my hands. I-LED is used for the indicator.

Many people frequently upgrade to brighter turn signals, brake lights, and reverse lights. Those incredibly bright, powerful, colorful lights look amazing when they're turned on, but they also look nice when they're off.

One of my top annoyances is when the front amber turn signal is still visible in the headlight. The headlamp looks really old because of that. You can easily solve that by switching out your incandescent light bulbs for LED ones.

One example of a plug-and-play tiny light bulb is the GTR lighting Carbide 2. It has a dark finish, and the I-LED from GTR Lighting is now an excellent choice. These two fix the issue of unsightly headlights when not in use.

What sets the I-LED apart, however, is that when it is turned on, it is wildly brilliant. These things are insane, and I promise that no one will ever notice that you're turning around again. They are entirely crazy from front to back, and they are available in all the bulb sizes you require.

Since it has an amber rear, it is the amber turn signal and parking light.

This one's back is silver, indicating that it's white. This choice is great for a reverse light.

This one is a red turn signal and parking light since it has a red back.

After that, there is the switchback blue version.

I'll give you a quick overview here.

There are often two modes for your front turn signals. Your turn signal is flashing intense amber, and your parking light is dim amber. If that's how your car runs on the front end and you install a Switchback bulb, that dim amber will turn dazzling white.

It replicates a contemporary LED daytime running light. Then your turn signal is extremely bright amber, yet it still blinks amber when you turn it on. It fits any car that has those two circuits in its front turn signal and gives an old-school technological vehicle a sleek, modern look.

This device is plug-and-play in any application you use it with. The main distinction is that you occasionally require the line-going turn signal adaptor. Compared to other modules on the market, this arrangement is superior since it eliminates the need for drilling holes, splicing, and cutting your wiring.

In most cases, you will want that turn signal adaptor whether you are using this product in a front or rear turn signal. The turn signal adaptor is installed after the wiring is unscrewed.

Identifying and aligning the arrows on the turn signal adapter and the bulb wiring is crucial. A keyway and notch are there, but as it's entirely made of plastic, it could be installed wrongly. Make sure everything is in alignment, then insert the adapter and add the bulb adapter to the back.

A turn signal adaptor should be ordered together with your I-LED bulbs if you plan to use them in the turn signal. Since some of these bulbs can function without it, it is optional. It is advisable to purchase turn signal adapters, install the bulb without them, and check for hyper flashing.

Add a turn signal adaptor if your indicator is out of light or has a horrible flashing issue.

In general, the turn signal adapter shouldn't be required if you're utilizing these for applications that don't blink with your turn signals, such as parking lights, brake lights, or reverse lights. On the other hand, the turn signal adapter ought to promptly resolve any error messages you may have.

How to Install the I-LED in Headlights

Knowing which lights match your truck is crucial before placing your order.

There are a few choices for you. First, remove the original bulb socket from your car. Then, remove the bulb, and you'll see some lettering here identifying it.

Once you know the type of bulb you have, use a cross-reference guide to determine which LED variant is appropriate for you. If you would rather not do that and would like to know what works, you may go to Ledlightjeep.com and enter your truck's year, make, and model to see which GTR I-LED bulbs are compatible with it. There is no need for speculation.

Knowing what matches your truck is crucial before placing your bulb order.

You have two options. First, remove the original bulb socket from your car, then remove the bulb. This page has some information that will identify the type of bulb.

Knowing what kind of bulb you have can help you choose the appropriate LED variation using a cross-reference guide. Going to Ledlightjeep.com and entering your year, make, and model will let you see which GTR I-LED bulbs are compatible with your vehicle if you don't want to do that and know what works. It doesn't involve any guesswork.

The corresponding connector is also required after the purchase of the amber bulb. The original 3157 bulbs have a square plastic connector with two tabs on the side. The LED connector must be compatible with that.

It is rather obvious that these are the same connectors. We don't need anything between these connections, which is good. The lightbulb has an arrow-shaped notch on top. The notches must be lined correctly, pressed together, and connected.

I also advise using dielectric grease for any bulb application with an external connection. Despite a cover and a little O-ring, moisture can still enter and harm the connectors. A small amount of dielectric grease will protect your investment.

It's quite easy to use. For headlight bulb connections and other external LED bulb wiring, Morimoto offers a specifically made green dielectric grease that can be used anywhere there is a connection. We'll apply dielectric grease here, where the connectors touch, and the pins meet.

This acts as an additional physical barrier to keep moisture out. The pins' good contact is the only reason this works. All you need to do is apply some grease here as well, as you can see below.

My connection is better protected from the weather now than it would have been in the manufacturing.

Finding the old connector's mounting configuration comes next once your bulb adapter is attached to the bulb and sealed with dielectric grease. In the beginning, it operated by holding your bulb in place with the bulb socket, which was installed into the housing using various mounting tabs. This bulb lacks all of that, as you can see, and it will no longer fit in there after we replace your old bulb with the new one.

Now, this bulb slides straight into the headlight housing. You can see the many notches where it is supposed to go.

When you install the new bulb, it fits in there instead of where these notches used to be. It will fall out because it rotates freely and lacks similar attaching tabs. A kit is available to replicate the mounting tabs from the original bulb socket.

The process involves holding the old adapter up to the new bulb, locating the mounting tabs on your original bulb socket, and then beginning construction.

If your socket is as wide as this one, you will require an adaptor collar to create a broader ring of diameter around the bulb. You won't need the extra collar if your bulb is smaller, like this one, a 7443. Use the collar only if you require the additional depth to hold it in place and make some fast test fit measurements.

Depending on the type of bulb you have, you can now choose between two sets of screws. Both long and short screws are in your possession. The longer screws are required if you're utilizing the adaptor collar.

The screws will thread straight into the bulb to match the location of the tabs on your bulb socket if you are not using the adapter collar. You can see that my new bulb has a screw base tab, and the older bulb has a tab here if I hold it up this way.

Indeed! In order to secure the new bulb in place, these Allen screws serve as bulb sockets.

Using the Allen wrench that comes with the package, take the screw that you need—long or short—and insert it into the bulb where you believe it should be. It's acceptable if this requires some trial and error. You can check to see if what you created fits the back of your headlight or taillight after you have your screws in place. Depending on the application, you will often need three or four screws.

We'll try again when I shift the bottom one over one hole, as you can see, even though I have two of the three lined up. I can twist it into position now that I've moved the screw over one spot, and they all line up.

A seal is also required once you have positioned the screws on the lightbulb so that they line up with the mounting points in your headlight or taillight opening. As you can see, the original bulbs include a rubber grommet that prevents them from slipping and keeps moisture out.

These foam seals serve the same purpose as the GTR Lighting I-LED lights. The rubber seal on the original bulb connector is installed in the same manner as the I-LED bulb. This will compress the bulb, keep it tight, and keep moisture out when you install it.

After installing the grommet, you can insert the entire item into your headlight assembly and twist and wiggle it without it moving. There won't be any moisture entering. Connecting the new lightbulb where the old one was removed is the final step.

Because of its configuration, this entire system was formerly hidden behind the headlamp to protect it from the weather.

Now that it's exposed to the weather, there is a considerable chance of corrosion and contamination. This kind of lightbulb is not very rare. The original bulb connector is left out of the element when using GTR Lighting Ultra Reverse bulbs, which function with a universal collar. Other lights perform the same function, such as the Triton from VLED.

I would apply extra Morimoto dielectric grease and seal any areas where moisture might seep in when I installed it on my car. Covering the entire thing with enormous heat shrink is another option if you want to go above and beyond.

I'm not sure about you, but I want to safeguard my expensive LED lighting upgrades, and this green dielectric grease is made especially for outdoor use.

Outdoor lighting connectors will be inexpensive insurance against future issues. You may not always need the turn signal adapter when installing a turn signal, but if you install a bulb and it hyper-flashes or gives you an error, don't forget to install the cylinder (the turn signal adapter) in the wiring.

Once you detach the wiring from the bulb adapter, the turn signal adapter will line up. Remember to align the arrows. If you do not align the arrowed notches, you may install this incorrectly.

The turn signal adapter's opposite side then connects to the bulb adapter. Additionally, make sure that the arrows on this one are aligned. After reinstalling everything, you ought to be free of hyper-flash problems.

Installing the I-LED in Tail Lights

When discussing the rear-facing bulbs in your taillights, such as the turn signals, parking, stop, and reverse lights. As a general guideline, use a red bulb when the reflector is red. Use an amber bulb if it has an amber reflector.

We're going to utilize the bulb with the red indicator on the back since, as you can see up here, our brake light is red. In order to match the collar, I have previously constructed the red bulb where the screws go. My bulb wire is connected and sealed with dielectric grease, and I have the foam O-ring in place.

You remove your lightbulb, and I have the connector that goes with it. The back installation is the same as the front, so this would accommodate a variety of bulb types, including a 7440 and a 7443.

Battle of the Bulbs: What is the Best Turn Signal Bulb?

Your stock incandescent front turn signal bulb is the first thing you need.

This is the bright amber glass bulb that blinks on and off, and it looks just like it should. You see that unsightly, somewhat dim amber glow in between blinks. It does, however, completely cover the reflector as it should, but the intensity is insufficient.

Xenon Depot XTR VF LED

Now, let's take a look at the Xenon Depot XTR VF LED.

This virtual filament design looks exactly like the stock bulb except for a much more desirable color. It's not as bright as the other options, but it's an improvement over stock.

VLED Triton V6

Now, let's take a look at the VLED's Triton V6.

You've got that great-looking amber-red color, and it's a lot brighter than the xenon depot or the stock bulb.

GTR Lighting I-LED Ultra Bulb

Finally, don't forget to check out the amber-colored GTR Lighting I-LED Ultra. With the new stunning LED amber color technology, the I-LED is the only bulb in the series that gives you the most vibrant and rich-looking amber hue.

Nothing compares to how deep and vivid the reds on the tail light appear.

There is a noticeable difference in brightness between the GTR I-LED and the V6 Triton from v-LEDs.

It will also be seen by drivers farther away because it is much more intense. You can achieve this effect by replacing your amber front turn signal bulbs with GTR Lighting LED switchbacks.

Usually, your parking lights or running lights appear bright white, but when you switch to turn signals, your tail lights turn a brilliant amber.

Removing your old incandescent lightbulb and replacing it with an I-LED red bulb will produce this look. Compared to the factory bulb, this one is exceptionally bright. It fits your turn signals, brake lights, and rear parking lights.

You will be amazed by the new GTR Lighting I-LED bulbs from the Ultra series! They are the answer if you're looking for brighter turn signals. For your next lighting upgrade project, try them; they're the best available alternative.